What To
 Look For In A Tripod


 

I found out a few fascinating things while trying to make sharp pictures at low shutter speeds and high magnifications. Heavy isn't enough. My first tripod was an 8 pound Gitzo. Even using the mirror locked up it wouldn't allow a good sharp picture with telephoto lenses. Any small vibration would take forever to settle down. I then tried a heavier 12 pound Bogen 3051. This tripod was fairly loose at it is pivots and joints but it was a lot  less susceptible to camera or wind induced tremor.

Try this easy comparative test. Mount your longest telephoto lens on every tripod you are considering. Extend the tripod legs to their complete length. Do not raise the center column of the tripod. Whilst looking into your camera's view finder, give the legs a really mild slap with your hand. Watch and see how much time the picture in your camera's view finder "jiggles" or oscillates around.

Pick the heaviest tripod that you simply can stand to carry that gives the least quantity and duration of image "jiggle". Should you continuously need to adjust the back and forth tilt because the composition inside your viewfinder changes as soon as you let go of the digital camera or tripod controls, the tripod is sagging under the weight of your lens. Unfortunately, using a heavier tripod is generally the only way to fix this issue.


The Beanbag, An Option Over Tripods

If you must consider a ‘pod’ bring a monopod, but my suggestion is to provide a bean bag or just shoot handheld. If you’re shooting animals think about that these are moving subjects and a lot more frequently than not you'll most likely want to be at fairly quick shutter speeds anyway so you can shoot quick from the hip and cease motion.

     

Lenses with IS (image stabilization), VR (vibration reduction) or AS (anti shake) will of course also be advantageous for zoo photography and usually allows you to shoot a single to two cease slower than with a lens with this feature. The improvement of image high quality in modern day DSLRs will usually also allow you to increase your ISO to 400, 640 or 800 should you require the additional speed.

Those times exactly where I've not desired to compromise about the ISO, or I have wanted substantial depth of field or the light levels have simply been really lower, I've usually always been able to use my bean bag to my advantage and get the shot.